The season behind us is worth a look back. Much more than a prelude to summer, spring in Japan is THE high season because of its cherry blossoms. A national celebration peaks in Kyoto, the capital of rich, ancient traditions and the once-home to centuries of emperors. Fresh fish and sea creatures with the delicate flavor of miso dominate menus and the culinary culture all around the island.
One of our favorite discoveries was how much fun the ladies had dressing up in geisha costumes and taking selfies. The guys accompanied in long robes, swords, and fur trim.
photo courtesy of kimononagoya
Miso-glazed Black Cod from Japan from A Baker’s Passport
This delicate dish from Chef Nobu Matsuhisha was inspired by fishermen of ancient Japan, who cured a catch of black cod in the remnant juices of sake production to help preserve it. In the 30 upscale restaurants of this chef’s global restaurant empire (including Matsuhisha and Nobu), this is the go-to dish that has been on the menu since the beginning in Los Angeles in 1999. If you have time, marinate the fish in sake and mirin for a day or two to achieve the silky texture. If not, a quick soak works, and dinner will be ready in less than half an hour.
Equipment: Saucepan, medium bowl, broil-safe pan
Time: 1 hour
Yield: 4-6
Level: Easy
4 tablespoons white miso paste
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons sake
1 tablespoon sugar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
2 pounds (32 ounces) skinless black cod (or regular cod works, too)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
pinch of pepper
Lemon slices for garnish
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, mix the miso paste, mirin, sake, sugar and soy sauce and allow them to boil. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Soak the cod in the miso mixture for 20 minutes (up to 2 days). Remove the fish from the marinade and into a baking dish. Drizzle with lemon juice on them, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brush the fish with the marinade, then broil about 5 minutes on each side, until the center of the fish is white and the top is a dark-brown glaze. Serve over greens and garnish with lemon slices.
This was my first trip to Japan and we hit high/low Tokyo (the high: a skyscraper hotel with a 360 degree view of the city; the low (only because it was subterranean): iconic cuisine in the subways like Tokyo Banana). We caught the peak of the cherry blossom season in Kyoto and sampled the ancient, authentic cuisine of a ryokan, including elegantly-plated formal breakfasts and dinners. We ate every fuzzy leaf, every mystery berry, and so, so much fish. We couldn’t manage only one special soup which centered around a cute little baby turtle still in its shell. Eeek.
You might put Japan in your queue of vacation destinations if it is not there already, and I hope you will go to drink up all the visual and culinary beauty of the spring…plus the flowing sake and cherry blossom-themed champagne.
Other spring, summer and fishy favorites from the archives:
https://old.foodmarketgypsy.com/iceland/
Winter Maple in Eastern Canada and New England(Opens in a new browser tab)
June 24, 2019
Boy, what great photographs. You really get a sense of the distinct colors – and the delicacy – of Japan. Would like to hear more about the trip. Of course, the heart of these witty celebrations are the recipes, and I am going to try the cod recipe this week. I’ve had it in restaurants but you are such a clear and straightforward guide, I feel as if I can make that for people this weekend. Will report back if there are any problems. Great to have a new entry from you, Chef. How is your book tour going?
June 24, 2019
I read Dan Barber’s article in your newsletter. The politics of food will only become more important as the planet’s population grows. Hence I have decided to continue to buy organic vegetables and grass fed animals, rather than praying for a pandemic, a democratic lead Supreme Court,
or death to Monsanto/Bayer.
If you have other suggestions, please pass them on.
June 24, 2019
I’ve heard several sustainable food advocates talk about the need for us to vote with our forks (and wallets.) We can shop at farmers’ markets, buy organic and local foods, and help make people aware of the dangers of the corporate food system. I’m hoping to pick up some good tips in Denver and will pass them along 🙂